Back in the summer of 2002, I attempted one of the longest traverses of my life on the so-called Roof of Japan, from Kamikochi to Tateyama in the Kita Alps. What follows is a breakdown of that long, treacherous journey. I learned not only a lot about mountaineering in that 10-day stretch, but also a lot about myself.
I catalogued my trip in a photo journal, the images of which you will see in this write-up. Stay tuned for the full report over the coming weeks, as I break each day down into great detail for others to learn from my (often) poor decision making.
Did the same hike myself about two years ago, after the year before having it prematurely ended by a hiking companion both much less physically and materially prepared than she had let on: we started at Murodo, got only as far south as Goshiki-ga-hara, and had to exit via Kurobe Dam.
That trail along the lake is the most tedious walk I have ever done, and I have had to do it twice. Thankfully the second time was at the end of a successful hike that had started in Kamikochi. There are boats on the lake, but none take hikers down the length of it. Instead of a thirty minute boat ride of maybe four km it becomes a half day of hike along a fractal path, horizontally and vertically, that follows every undulation of the shore. Exiting from Murodo will cost a lot more, at the top of the `Alpine Route`, but sanity is priceless.
What I learned? Lightweight tents are poor for mountain storm conditions, and if it rains several days in a row, be happy to spend the money for a mountain hut. The hut at Goshiki-ga-hara on my last night, coming from the south, was especially welcome as hypothermia set in. Be sure to make it to hut by 5-7 to get dinner, or a bath. Yes, Goshiki-ga-hara had a sento! (Murodo has a real onsen).
That’s one I’d love to do. I really like the UraGinzaSen. I hope I’ll remember to stop by and read.